pre-stain conditioner: A wipe-on sealer that stops soft woods like pine blotching under stain.
sacrificial board: A scrap under the work that takes the tear-out when a saw or drill exits the back face.
pocket screw: A self-tapping screw driven through a pocket hole — the standard beginner-friendly joint for frames and boxes.
pocket hole: An angled hole drilled with a special jig so a screw joins two boards edge-to-face without showing on the outside.
countersink: A cone-shaped hole that lets a flat-head screw sit flush with (or below) the surface instead of sticking up.
tear-out: Splintering where a blade or bit exits wood — prevent with sharp tools, tape, or a sacrificial board.
plywood: Sheet of thin wood layers glued with alternating grain — stable, cheap, won't move with seasons. Edges need edging or sanding.
racking: Side-to-side parallelogram wobble in a frame — fixed by backs, stretchers, braces or solid joinery.
rabbet: A step-shaped notch cut along the edge of a board — backs and panels often sit in a rabbet so they sit flush.
clamps: Bars that squeeze parts together while glue dries — you can never have too many.
veneer: A paper-thin layer of fine wood applied over cheaper stock — gives a hardwood look on a budget.
layout: Marking all cut lines, holes and joints on the wood before cutting — measure twice, cut once.
scribe: Scratching a line with an awl or knife instead of a pencil — far more accurate for joinery.
apron: The horizontal board that runs between legs under a tabletop or seat — ties the legs together and resists wobble.
dado: A flat-bottomed groove cut across the grain — shelves often sit in dadoes so they can't pull out.
grit: Sandpaper coarseness — lower is rougher. Start ~80–120, finish 180–220 before staining.
